Thursday, August 9, 2007

Khao Yai

Joe and I headed north to Khao Yai a day later than planned after one final breakfast at le bon pain. Sometime in the middle of the day we arrived at the far southern tip of the Issan region in a small town called Pak Chong just outside the park. We settled into our room, had a yummy soup lunch and then just read and relaxed all afternoon in preparation for our trek through the park the following day.

The next morning we started out toward the park at 7:30am in the back of a songthaew with a family of four from Denmark (mother, father, and two daughters ages about 18 and 7). They were very lovely people with excellent English and we couldn’t have asked for better company. Our guide was also amazing at spotting wildlife even as our truck wound its way on the main paved road through the jungle.


Our first stop yielded a few giant black squirrels high up in the trees. They really do mean giant-although you can’t tell from the photo, these suckers are about a meter long! Nearby we also saw some mini brown squirrels, but we were not fast enough with the camera.








Several times throughout the day we also saw macaques, although they weren’t difficult to spot since they like to sit near (or sometimes even on) the main road.







Another animal that we twice caught in the act of crossing the road was this monitor lizard.

Much more elusive were these white-handed gibbons. Our guide saw them way off in the distance and quickly set up a small telescope so we could glimpse some more detail. This photo was taken through the telescope.


We next stopped at the visitor center where our guide gave us a little bit of history about the park and a choice between two treks to take before lunch: one that was fairly long and quite well traveled or another that only he used and was about an hour shorter but more interesting. Of course we chose the second and were not disappointed. All of the trails through the park were originally elephant trails. (There are many elephants in the park, although they are difficult to spot during the rainy season. There are also tigers, but they are almost never seen.) You would think that this would make the paths wide and easy to walk, but elephants are actually quite nimble, and the trail we took was very narrow at times and required a decent bit of climbing and scrambling, most of it through the rainy-season mud.

Throughout our hike there was one creature that we truly experienced first hand: the leech. The forest was brimming with tiny black leeches about as thin as a piece of spaghetti and an inch long. They stand on one end on the forest floor while the other end reaches upwards; ready to attach itself to anything tasty that crosses its path. For this reason, we wore leech socks over our regular socks and pants in order to prevent getting bitten. The socks, however, did not prevent the leeches from trying and we were constantly flicking the little critters off of ourselves and each other as we walked. I pilfered a this picture off the 'net because I didn't want to stand in one place long enough to take a picture.


Luckily the next creature we encountered was not as forward as the leaches. Our guide noticed a green pit viper sitting curled up on a too-close-for comfort branch. The snake was very obliging and we took several pictures as our guide informed us that if it were to bite we would have 4 hours to get to a hospital before there would certainly be permanent damage and a possibility of death.








Our trek next brought us to two beautiful waterfalls, the second of which was featured in the movie The Beach. It was here that we took a break at ate our lunch on the rocks at the foot of the fall.

The afternoon was spent in pursuit of the Great Hornbill, and our patience finally paid off when we spotted about 10 of them flying over our lookout (this was not an official lookout, just a spot in the road where our guide had seen the birds lately). Again, this was not something I wanted to miss fumbling with the camera. In fact there were several other animals throughout the day that were either too fast, too far, or too fascinating to capture good photos of including barking deer (which we actually heard bark), a fox, giant black squirrels (a meter long!), mini brown squirrels, and quite a few beautiful species of tropical birds.

After the cool ride back to headquarters, Joe and I were happy to just relax with good food and beer before cruising back to KK the next day.

Tuesday, August 7, 2007

Na Rak as Punishment

This article was too good to pass up. So Thailand.

To Punish Thai Police, a Hello Kitty Armband

by Seth Mydans in NYT on August 7, 2007

Serendipity

This past week Joe and I both had vacation and we thankfully got a chance to spend some much needed time together (he works days and I work nights and weekends). First on our agenda was to go to Bangkok to see the new Harry Potter movie in IMAX 3D and then immediately head to Khao Yai National Park to spend some time in the woods.

After a rough start- we barely made it out of Khon Kaen due to over-crowded busses at the end of a holiday weekend- we arrived in the capital at about midnight and quickly found a cheap hotel near the movie theater to crash.

In the morning we ate a leisurely breakfast at le bon pain. I thoroughly enjoyed a bagel sandwich, the likes of which I hadn’t feasted upon since I left the states. We then headed to the top floor of the swanky Siam Paragon Mall to purchase our tickets for the much-anticipated spectacle.

We were devastated to learn that the IMAX machine was broken and that there would be no 3D Harry that day or the next. Thankfully the regular theater was still showing the film so we purchased tickets for the next show. The awesome movie immediately lifted our somewhat defeated spirits and erased any ill-will I was feeling toward IMAX theaters and/or Thailand.

After discussing the film over pizza in the basement of Paragon, Joe and I headed to Khaosan road, the acclaimed backpackers haven of Bangkok. I wasn’t that impressed, most of the place consisted of overpriced cheap clothing and expensive beer. I was able to unearth some really cool yarn made out of recycled silk, a find that’s even sweeter considering the fact that I can only find really wimpy acrylic stuff in KK. We ate dinner at May Khaidee’s vegetarian restaurant (the initial draw to Khaosan) and discovered a little soi of vegetarian restaurants that I’m sure we will visit on subsequent Bangkok visits.

The highlight of the day (other than the movie- of course) was the tuk-tuk ride home where Joe and I held a very decent conversation with the driver. About 85% was in Thai, and this despite the loud noises of the tuk-tuk and the general bedlam of Bangkok. We went to sleep with the idea that we would get up early and catch a bus to Khao Yai. Luckily, things did not go according to plan.

After our alarm went off, Joe was suddenly struck with the idea that we should stay in Bangkok for another day (did he just want to sleep in or were there greater forces at work?). I’m not normally one to break from the decided course, but I figured we had nothing to lose since we didn’t yet have reservations at Khao Yai. Without any real plans we headed back to le bon pain for breakfast again (chocolate croissants-mmm…) and decided to visit Jim Thompson’s house which just happened to be a short walk away.

Jim Thompson is an American famous for revitalizing the Thai silk industry (and for disappearing without a trace on Easter Sunday in 1967), and his house is a prime example of a traditional Thai-style dwelling (that's where we are in the picture). We took a tour of the beautiful house and settled down in the café there for some sodas with lime juice to people-watch the other tourists.

Just looking around a particular middle-aged man caught my eye and I thought to myself, “He definitely looks French,” followed by, “He looks really familiar,” and then, “I think that’s my host father from Paris.” After I got a look at his wife and children I became even more convinced this was the family I stayed with 5 years ago in France. You might think that I would more readily recognize them, but their sons had aged considerably and it was simply unbelievable that we would run into each other in such a random place. I ran out of the café and confirmed my suspicions. We caught up for a few minutes (in a very broken mixture of French and English) and then went our separate ways, they on their tour of the house and me shaking my head in bewilderment.

Without any further plans for the day, Joe and I guiltily decided to see Harry Potter again only to discover that the IMAX was fixed- after the worker assured me yesterday that there was no chance of this! The movie was even better on the huge screen, although the 3D portion was somewhat disappointing.

We spent the rest of the day wandering around the streets surrounding Siam Square (where you can find much cooler shopping at competitive prices than at Khosan road in case anyone is planning a visit) and ate a nice dinner at a Thai restaurant. The Thai food in Bangkok is very different from the extra-spicy Issan food in Khon Kaen where it’s hard to get a good peanut sauce.

All in all the decision to stay an extra day couldn’t have been better or more serendipitous.

Details on Khao Yai to come.